First visit to BobbyD’s left the palate wanting.  I sent my two-piggie review to BobbyD and was surprised with a heart-felt response and invitation to return for a larger sampling of “It’s All About Da Meat”.  Fair enough.  Here’s Review Two.

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In the heart of Emporia, KS’ surprisingly healthy “downtown” and not far from Emporia State U, sits a charming little diner that rarely finds itself half-empty, noon or night.  Wood paneling and red-and-white-checked table cloths give the local crowd a warm embrace.  The menu is mostly ‘Q with a smattering of chicken strips, salads, and wraps for those with an aversion to smoke.  Missus 182-Mile-Round-Tip-For-A-Plate-Of-Brisket-Are-You-Kidding-Me and I stuck to the dark side of the menu – The Monday Night Special brisket dinner and a full slab rib dinner.

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BobbyD knows he’s serving a small and finite crowd who a) may not have driven 90 miles for brisket, and b) who may not love a filthy nasty heavy mouthful of smoke the way someone in KC might when they head out for ‘Q.  BobbyD’s meats have little to no bark.  I attribute the MIA bark to the rub – savory and herbaceous with almost no sugar, maybe none.  (No sugar means there’s nothing to carmelize, no sweet swamp to catch smoke.)  However, he’s not cheatin’ “da meat”.  There was a nice smoke ring and flavor on all the meats.  The St. Louis trimmed ribs were spectacular.  Tender and firm and joyfully releasing the bone when instructed.  The night’s feature, brisket, came in three thick-cut planks of deep walnut enrobed with a hearty burgundy smoke ring.  Tender as prayed for and presenting a fabulous beefy taste.  This is some top shelf cow.

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We had the opportunity to sample some turkey, pulled pork, and smoked chicken wings – each one with a great story to tell.  The turkey tasted like your mom’s Thanksgiving turkey… at a cookout on the back deck in late May.  Savory and smoky at once.  BobbyD is under investigation for unfair labor practices.  Did you know he has his 80 year-old dad is up in the kitchen at 6 in the morning pulling pork?  Dad won’t let Bobby near the pig until it pulled the RIGHT way – Dad’s way.  Moist and firm to the bite, Dad know’s what he’s doing.  In my ten Q’ommandments you don’t barbeque chicken.  You can grill it or you can pass some smoke over it for an hour or so, but don’t call it ‘Q.  Fair enough, BobbyD calls ‘em “smoked” and softly&tenderly smoked they are.  Doused with a “citrus and chipotle” sauce, these suckers are… I’m gonna say it… finger licking good.

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All told, Mr.D just jumped to the high end of the piggie scale with FOUR happy little piggies.  If he was catching more bark – my preference – he’d definitely qualify for FIVE piggies.  And by the looks of the crowds he gathers, I think the locals are starting him with five.

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By the way, an appetizer basket of okra battered-right-there-in-the-kitchen, was comfort food done right, as were the other sides which my wife loves and I just scootch out of the way to get to the meat.  Emporia has a real gem in BobbyD’s.  BobbyD has a sense of how to please the people that keep him in business – and THAT is the point of being in business in the first place.  A half a tank of gas and three hours on the road may be a higher price than most will pay for ‘Q like this, but, in my book, it was worth that and more.  The next time your GPS says you gotta go through Emporia, tell your GPS you gotta stop by BobbyD’s on Merchant Street.

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website  |  map  |  607 Merchant ST, Emporia KS 66801  |  620-342-1990